Of Beer and Teenagers

Actually, this is two stories, both about occupation.

This weekend my friends here decided that they would like to pay a visit to Palestinian only Brewery. Located in the central West Bank Christian town of Taybeh, is the appropriately named Taybeh Brewery. Owned and operated by the Khoury family under the tutelage of Nadim, who was trained in brewery sciences at the University of California, they produce three beers (golden, dark and light) despite the economic strangulation of the Israel Occupation. Let me quote from an update from T.

"As a beer lover myself I must confess that Nadim's Golden is outstanding. The beer is clear, easy to drink, refreshing, but most of all, flavorful. There are only the freshest ingredients used to make his beer and the water for the brew comes from a natural Palestinian spring. Here in the West Bank, the beer is more expensive than other imported beers because it is renowned for its high quality and great taste.

Each month, production of the beer is challenged by the regulations of the occupying Israeli bureaucracy. Barley and hops from Bavaria and the Czech Republic are frequently held up at ports on the Mediterranean where their freshness wanes ultimately damaging Nadim's final product. Israel places severe restrictions on the shipment of the final product as well and has banned the shipment of countless bottles of beer from the West Bank to destinations in the UK, Japan, Belgium, and Germany.

It is interesting to note that Taybeh has not yet reached markets in the United States or Canada. It is my goal to change that. I have been in contact with Nadim and his family members about possible ways to bring Taybeh to the states. As the Khoury family struggles to stay afloat amidst trying economic conditions, the addition of new markets for the Taybeh brews would be a welcomed event for the people of Palestine, and I dare say, Americans who imbibe as well.

Any ideas you have on the matter would be welcomed. I plan on following through with this pursuit beginning with the [State] Alcohol and Beverage Commission upon my return to the states. As mentioned, your contribution to this project will be beneficial on numerous levels. As well, this may be a great opportunity for some of you."

After all, how many times have you seen the chance to merge humanitarian aid and support for the small business man with the consumption of a delicious beer?"

So thats T. and his crusade to bring Taybeh to his sate. H., E. and I - the Canadians - have decided to do what we can to bring this beer to the LCBO. This mission, I'm sure, I'll keep you updated on!

*****

But I wasn't at Taybeh that day.

I returned to Jerusalem to buy the things I couldn't get when the stores in West Jerusalem closed for Sabbath on Friday evening. Despite leaving earlier, it took me 2 hours to get to my destination that again, had this been North America, it would have been a 20 minute drive. Between the circuitous roads that must go around the Wall back to the line up at Kalandia it was an incredibly frustrating experience. But arriving at Kalandia and knowing what to expect, I thought, would make it a slightly less unnerving experience than the last time.

Because of the line up - that took 45 minutes to get through - the Israelis opened another set of turnstile/x-ray/shrapnel proof booths...

A lot has been made by my friends here of the age of the Israeli soldiers that they have seen on their way here. Teenage girls and boys with M-16 assault rifles slung over their soldiers have bumped and jostled past all of us at some point in our time in Jerusalem or Tel Aviv. They talk like teenagers, they look like teenagers and part of me is deeply saddened by the fact that carrying a rifle that is often, especially with the girls, are nearly as long as they are tall, must do something extremely damaging to the psyche.

So I made my way, finally through the first turnstile, through the metal detector, and up to the glass. There staring back at me were three teenage girls. The one to whom I showed my passport didn't get out of her seat - they seemed like they were relaxed and lounging back in their respective spots. She didn't even ask to see my visa and while the general suggestion from everyone I meet is that the Israelis are condescending and cruel at checkpoints I saw not smugness in the smile she gave me. She looked up and saw me and the smile she gave me was one of embarrassment.